3d printer for homebrew?

Hi Densil,
If the bottom of your prints are curling up during printing then this indicates that the bed temperature is too high for the filament.

I usually print at 195ºC to 200ºC nozzle temp to make sure the filament extruded sticks to the previous layer.
I set the platform temp (using PLA) to 60ºC, then after the first layer has been printed I turn the temperature down to about 45ºC for the remainder of the print. You may need the higher platform temperature only to get the first layer to stick to the platform.

But these are settings you have to experiment a little. No two filaments are the same.

If the screw-thread at the top of the coil former is not clean and it is "bitty" then the nozzle temp is too high.
If you can easily snap the printed former in ½ then the nozzle temp is too low and the layers are not properly fusing together.
Curling up at the edges indicates too high platform temperature.
If your printout is just a ball of cotton-candy dragged around the platform then the first layer of filament is not sticking.

Use Tesa (blue) painters tape on the platform. I also rub a glue-stick evenly over the tape (2 directions) before I print. That also helps to stop the edges curling; the filament sticks better.

Yes, you have to drill out the screw hole in my coil former with a 2.5mm bit, but that only takes seconds. I made the screw bit using two shapes. Boolean subtracted a tube to make the hole, but forgot about the cone. The cone is to give the inside a slope - cannot print horizontal face in mid air.

If you let people know that you have a 3D printer then it fires their imagination and you will get lots of project requests, like ships in transparent bottles, roller-skate wheels, ball-gags, re-useable wine-bottle corks and kids toys. Many of the ideas I have been given were really not practical.

1 - Tell them how many hours it takes to print a roller-skate wheel, and the wheel will be too soft anyway
2 - Get them to design it in 3D and give you the STL file. That is often a stopper
3 - Charge money for the more elaborate projects that take more than a couple of hours
4 - Do help close friends and people who have helped you

I do make things for people, but I am very selective as to "what I can do" or "what I have time for". If someone wants something that I can also use (project box, camera mount, etc) then it may be worth spending a few hours drawing and printing it. Otherwise they can steal all your spare time. I will not print an R/C car that takes 60 hours, ½ a kg of filament. I have no objection to printing some of my own projects for other people, ham-radio projects, or stuff people who have helped me.

Hope this helps. BR Harry

TESA Tape:

Thanks harry.
I got the gcode from http://www.sm0vpo.com and it works ok. looks very professional. i tried a 20mhz coil like you suggested and it was spot on. only problem was that i had to drill out the tuning slug screw holes before i could tap them. is there something wrong with my printer or is this normal?

also the botom square bit of the former seem to curl up a bit at the edges but this can be my printer settings. any ideas? not really important as it is hardly noticable.

i opened my big mouth at work and now everyone wants me to print things for them like door stops, shower head holders and things. do you get this?
regards
/D

Densil wrote:Hi harry. I read in december that you are using a 3d printer. i saw the article on your homepage about the replacement for denco coils. one of your links is defective on www.sm0vpo.com but it works ok on sm0vpo.altervista.org. have you forgotten to upload the file?

i wonder if you have done anything else with the 3d printer? 2 years ago i was a member of a syndicate and we bought a rigidbot for $300. the other guys lost interest and i bought their shares for almost nothing. so now i am looking for things to make and get some ideas from you.

i have got sketchup 3d sw and cura slicer. so far i have made a saltpot and a soap dish and a few small toys. but i want to know if there are any serious uses in hamradio that you come up with? other than coil formers.

i read u were busy so take your time to answer. the printer hasnt been used for a year until i got it.
/D

Hi Densil,
Now you can download the GCODE file. Understand you completely. I bought my printer because I needed so many things that are not commercially available, or bespoke components for projects. I had a lot of uses before I bought the printer, but some of the guys at work have got them as the latest tech-toys. One guy is making drone parts but the others seem to do nothing other than download and print toys, occasionally.

If you want to experiment, then I can design a simple project for you and you can print it out if I send you the GCODE. You can do anything with a 3D printer, limited only by your imagination. Resistor lead folder template? bespoke project boxes, LED holders, variable capacitors, insulators, connector mounts, even replicate other items but personalise them with your call or name.

The syndicate is not such a good idea as there are several people who need to learn (and damage is a part of the learning process).
I still need your e-mail address, friendly reminder.

BR Harry (off sick today - hospital appointments!)

Ivan wrote:Hi,
if I decide to buy a 3D printer, i will select some type from the Prusa line.
It offers full support to me. It would be nice for railway modelling. It could
be used to make various knobs, tuning gear, parts of CW keys etc., too.

BR from Ivan

Hi Ivan,
My oscilloscope is taking an eternity. If I can get 3 hours on the bench in a week then I am really lucky. But I have made the PSU using 3D printer, front frame for the tube, tube support, and now I am also printing out knobs. Commercial knobs are a bit too big for the front panel I have, so I had to print custom knobs.

I had to increase the HT to the ECC81 horisontal plate driver to 600 volts. Deflection is not very sensitive.

But I think I would be lost without the 3D printer. I can compose in my lunch break at work (when I get one, and have no haftas), then the 3D printer sits there printing while I am doing other things for Maj-Lis.

But I believe the WANHAO is a good printer and is a copy of the PRUSA duplicator. Same SW.

BR Harry

zsolt wrote:HI,
i recently purchased a 3D printer I3Metal One (kit).It's built with an avr chip , all software free ( probably the cheapest kit ) 
The main board is programmed in Arduino ide, the 3d drawings are imported in Repetier Host (free), where they can be sliced with various built in slicer programs (free) , by this the Repetier Host can generate the G code for the printer . The printer can take G commands from Repetier through USB link or Repetier can upload all G code to an SD card, than the printer can operate alone without computer .
Oh , and this kit can be easily modified by adding a biax , or (what i'm trying now ) a marker to draw PCB's . The same  Repetier Host program can be used . 


And i'm doing my 3d drawings in Tinkercad , it's online , free , basic  .
Since all code is "available " to edit and modify , i see no reason why this kit can't be upgraded to 500x500x500 mm or even bigger . All you need is a good mechanic ( and a lathe   ) . In my country the mechanics (belt, axes ...) are available at fair price .
I don't know if it's true , i heard that with 3 webcams and some software a 3d scanner could be made ...

That looks interesting. I have something similar; a WANHAO Duplicator i3. Basically a copy of the PRUSA, but they also took the best and removed some of the mistakes of the other copies and produced a really good budget printer. It also uses an Arduino but built in an external housing. For me it is an excellent printer, but there are a few improvements I would have made.

It should be possible to extend the build area to 500 x 500 x 500mm and I believe the Arduino SW is sort of generic and wold need little (or no?) modification. but you would need to do a lot of metalwork.

Never seen web-cams used as a 3D scanner. I tried using an ordinary DSLR (new at Christmas) and I import the pix into 3D studio max, then, then using the pic as a model to create outlines to cut/edit a huge square block. It works fine with simple stuff. Circular object, draw and lathe. But I need more time to get it right. I would hate to try the duplicate a person's head. A little too much detail. Never used Tinkercad, gave up on Sketchup.

BR Harry

John_1981 wrote:I have thought about getting a small CNC milling machine for cutting out PCBs. Has anyone had any success with this method?

Hi John,
I have never used this method. But I have seen projects using 3D printer with modified software, but only useable for very light stuff, such as PCBs. Can't remember where I saw it but if I find the link I will post it here.

BR Harry

Densil wrote:ps - is that you on twitter @sm0vpo with the new camera?
i thought it must be but i once wrote to sm0vpo@hotmail.com many years ago and it wasnt you    i thought id just check b4 i follow the guy.
/D

Hi Densil,
Yes, it is indeed me. By all means follow me. I have been busy with radio/new camera and Maj-Lis was here over Christmas (that means cleaning, shopping, fixing, cuddling, more shopping, visitors, visiting, laid off with a heavy cold, new IKEA furniture assembly, ... the list goes on).

But if you saw me on Twitter then you will have seen some of the photos I have taken. Quite a lot of night photography.

As regards the GCODE link, yes I have already corrected it so the link points to the correct file. My memory stick with HHH was stolen (had it with me 24/7) but it disapeared from a table in a restaurant. There are always complications!!

But the link is updated and now it works. Have fun.

BR Harry

I have thought about getting a small CNC milling machine for cutting out PCBs. Has anyone had any success with this method?

HI,
i recently purchased a 3D printer I3Metal One (kit).It's built with an avr chip , all software free ( probably the cheapest kit ) 
The main board is programmed in Arduino ide, the 3d drawings are imported in Repetier Host (free), where they can be sliced with various built in slicer programs (free) , by this the Repetier Host can generate the G code for the printer . The printer can take G commands from Repetier through USB link or Repetier can upload all G code to an SD card, than the printer can operate alone without computer .
Oh , and this kit can be easily modified by adding a biax , or (what i'm trying now ) a marker to draw PCB's . The same  Repetier Host program can be used . 


And i'm doing my 3d drawings in Tinkercad , it's online , free , basic  .
Since all code is "available " to edit and modify , i see no reason why this kit can't be upgraded to 500x500x500 mm or even bigger . All you need is a good mechanic ( and a lathe   ) . In my country the mechanics (belt, axes ...) are available at fair price .
I don't know if it's true , i heard that with 3 webcams and some software a 3d scanner could be made ...

Hi,
if I decide to buy a 3D printer, i will select some type from the Prusa line.
It offers full support to me. It would be nice for railway modelling. It could
be used to make various knobs, tuning gear, parts of CW keys etc., too.

BR from Ivan

ps - is that you on twitter @sm0vpo with the new camera?
i thought it must be but i once wrote to sm0vpo@hotmail.com many years ago and it wasnt you    i thought id just check b4 i follow the guy.
/D

Hi harry. I read in december that you are using a 3d printer. i saw the article on your homepage about the replacement for denco coils. one of your links is defective on www.sm0vpo.com but it works ok on sm0vpo.altervista.org. have you forgotten to upload the file?

i wonder if you have done anything else with the 3d printer? 2 years ago i was a member of a syndicate and we bought a rigidbot for $300. the other guys lost interest and i bought their shares for almost nothing. so now i am looking for things to make and get some ideas from you.

i have got sketchup 3d sw and cura slicer. so far i have made a saltpot and a soap dish and a few small toys. but i want to know if there are any serious uses in hamradio that you come up with? other than coil formers.

i read u were busy so take your time to answer. the printer hasnt been used for a year until i got it.
/D